December 26, 2004, it was 10 years, Boxing day was a day of incredible violence, when nature has decided to wake up with a memorable result. That day, a giant earthquake hit the world, Indonesia and Thailand being the most affected areas. This day will be remembered for a long time in Simeulue Island, North Sumatra, the closest point to the epicenter.
After that day, even geography change; Beach moved Simeulue. All that was before under water in a coral reef teaming with life and color, was allowed to dry on the surface after a few minutes, when the earth began to move. Corals, sponges, crabs and snails have been left out of the water forever. The 9.2 magnitude quake raised the seafloor about two meters as a result of the enormous energy released.
This event has changed the lives of many residents of the island. Many of them moved after the earthquake and the terrible tsunami waves - that were 30 meters high -. Hit the island and destroyed homes, boats, farms and fields
Simeulue Island after the tsunami 20014. Photographs by Francesco Ricciardi
in these islands, there were incredibly very few human victims. I remember the people of the village of Langi, north of Simeulue, talk about the primordial terror brought on them for seven minutes earthquake so violent that they could not stay on their feet, while witnessing how sea slipped away, and corals going back thousands of meters from the coast. Tradition and stories passed down by the elders of the village saved many lives that day. When the sea withdraws, "smong, the deadly wave is coming," they said.
Tales told about an old earthquake, where the sea retracted, followed by a giant wave that destroyed the village in the early 900s. That day in December 2004, escape from the village to the surrounding hills has saved hundreds of people; the tsunami wave on Simeulue killed only six. The close ties that the people of Simeulue have with nature made the difference compared to other regions, such as Banda Aceh, where the waves killed thousands. In the small town of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, the human population decreased from 7,500 to 400 in a few minutes.
I did not go back to these areas since then, but the feeling of walking on raised coral, like a petrified forest, watching crabs and other dead and dried animal, waiting for high tide ever happened is still engraved in my memory.
I was there three months after the big event, after the machine humanitarian aid has completed processing the immediate emergency and was part of a scientific expedition organized to assess the impact of the disaster coral reef North Sumatra, particularly near the epicenter. On board the expedition ship were specialists in different fields of biology coral, invertebrate experts to fish ecologists, Europe and Asia. We witnessed a historic event, and the first divers on the submerged reefs off the island of Simeulue after the disaster. We were probably the first people dive there, as it was 10 years diving was not as popular as it is now, and that the island was pretty remote, only frequented by villagers and some surfers pioneers.
Simeulue Island after the tsunami 20014. Photographs by Francesco Ricciardi
In parts of Simeulue, the most exposed to ocean waves and where coastal mangrove forests were intact, the effect of the tsunami wave on the deep reef was almost insignificant; the fury of the Indian Ocean during severe storms can be quite difficult for coral reefs, so that some tsunami waves was not a big deal and just broke some big table corals in the shallow part of the reef. The tsunami had no major effect on an environment already well suited for high-energy hydrodynamic situation. The ecosystem was still healthy, with corals adapted to strong waves, which now make this island a favorite among surfers. Fish diversity - my specialty and the reason for my participation in the expedition - was in very good condition. I remember fish abundant and diverse butterflies, a very good indicator of the health of corals in this region, and I said that from a fish perspective, a tsunami is only a (very) large wave; nothing to be too worried.
The situation was very different in other areas closer to the epicenter; especially where mangroves have been cleared to make way for shrimp farms and rice paddies replaced coastal forests. Siltation caused by the wave back - causing sediment from the unprotected side - stifled some corals that have remained underwater. The wash water has created an unusually high turbidity water, and particle sedimentation installed on corals with a ripple effect on the entire ecosystem. Surgeonfish and parrotfish, which feed on algae and were still able to find food in this devastated environment, were widespread and very low biodiversity. The majority of fish were juveniles, adults have been washed or simply gone.
Like many coastal villages in Indonesia, even Simeulue largely based on fishing (even too much nowadays that overfishing is a dramatic reality of Indonesia). Coral reefs play a very important role to ensure these people a sufficient supply of protein in their diet. If they are smart - as apparently the Simeulue people were, seeing the conditions of pristine coral reefs emerged -. Without using bombs or other destructive methods, they were able to ensure sustainable use of resources from the sea
10 years after the tsunami, the memories are still vivid. We do not know when nature will decide to wake up again, but it will happen again for sure that we are on the Ring of Fire. But now we know we can limit the damage, the preservation of our environment means to save us.
Simeulue today
After this catastrophic event, Simeulue has recovered and now the first tourists, mainly surfers but also people looking for calm and a view the old Indonesia, started coming to the island. Do not expect many restaurants or attractions to the sea and nature. Locals are always conservative, but friendly with strangers.
IN BRIEF
Province: Simeulue Regency
House: 2,051 km2
POPULATION: 80,674 (2010)
GETTING THERE: Susiair (http://fly.susiair.com/ ) offers a daily connection from / to Medan in northern Sumatra. There is an airport in the south of the island (Sinabang), and the daily connection to Medan is quite reliable.
DO :. Surfing, scuba diving, snorkeling, relaxing
TO BRING :. Everything you might need in a remote island
WHERE TO STAY: Very few surf stations are available now. A quick look on tripadvisor show you all the possibilities.