Indonesia has a rich tradition of fashion, and since the seam is quite affordable, many are tempted to go for parts on measurement. You've probably heard batik and kebaya , but do you know what is really in fashion and what is just cheap and shabby? To understand a little more of the Indonesian fashion, what to wear and what not to wear, I met Putu Andayani Prasuti Pradnyana, the designer behind Poutou Couture.
What are the key elements of Indonesian fashion?
There are two main elements, the kebaya and batik. The kebaya today is fundamentally a very fitted blouse that would highlight feminine curves. Traditionally, it is long-sleeved and modest, but with added variations nowadays, it can be sleeveless and "peekaboo" transparent. It is actually the sexy clothes you can get away with wearing. The various parts of Indonesia have cuts or styles kebaya. For example, the Sundanese (West Java) would kebaya neckline trapezoidal heart, while the Balinese kebaya would-neck breaker box and front opening. It could wear the usually kebaya with a hand piece kain , or loosely translated as sarong, and here are the options are limitless with each ethnic group (Indonesia, we have more than 300) claiming their own (contemporary or old) batik ikat and songket reasons. If an ethnic group does not already have a typical pattern (as-the original Betawi ethnic group in Jakarta), you can be sure they work with local government to explore and produce their own, which is always fascinating to keep an eye on. contemporary designs for kain also a trend; if you're a math geek look out for batiks computer generated fractals.
If the expatriate women want to wear traditional Indonesian clothing, which is appropriate for a wedding business meeting, cocktails, party birthday, a diplomatic gathering?
For a wedding, you can actually go as glam or even white as you want, there really is no rule that you can be assured that you could never exceed maxed- out of the bride, Heavy- pearl style, but you try.
For a cocktail, go for beautiful modern kebayas or wear something traditional, but more contemporary style, may have a piece of kain turned into a long cocktail dress. For birthday parties, wear something fun that does not force you, such a cute oversized kebaya with tight pants and a statement belt or your casual clothes, but style with a light scarf kain.
As for diplomatic meetings or business meetings, go for something custom as a batik jacket / top and some chunky accessories matched with a plain background, or wear a suit and dress made entirely from a piece of kain if you are daring, playing with colors. It is actually quite accepted by a serious desktop environment.
And for men?
certainly have that piece of batik or ikat shirt, choose one with a softer material or which does not make you sweat. Like pieces made by hand can be quite expensive, do take your time to choose a pattern you wont go elsewhere. Batik and also have a link, they are great conversation starters.
What is a big step?
Especially with kebayas, make sure they are mounted on the body (unless they are intentionally designed to be large). Having custom made and avoid buying the rack if you can because the body sizes of all women are different. There is nothing more flattering than wearing a kebaya flange. Also, please do not buy the printed batik computer, they are much cheaper, yes, but really make an impact on the closure of the small practice "real" batik workshops that make everything by hand. Traditionally, we believe that every piece by hand carries the "soul" of artisans and computer printed is just bland in this regard. In addition to this, it kills the local economy.
When not wearing traditional? I can not really identify as we like to see wear increasingly today. It maintains the tradition and spirit Indonesian living in these modern times. I guess the only no-no is to not wear a kebaya itchy to your event (try the fabric before purchasing).
This is a trend right now in Indonesia?
There are many more game in the cuts, trims, and applied. Indonesian trends used to focus on anything on top and feminine, but now we are seeing a shift towards cutting back and being more moderate fashion or edgy. Modern textiles are set up to work with traditional media. What's great is still a trend is making living in couture houses. Expats have not guessed right away that, in Indonesia, there is a vibrant layer fashion houses like you would in Paris, only much more accessible to all classes. Here, the Indonesians have one-of-a-kind clothing made for them as often as eating nasi goreng .
It is difficult to speak of the Indonesian fashion not to mention the skin. Most beauty products sold in Indonesia are advertised as whitening products. Why is it so important for people, especially women, have a white skin?
This is sad, but true. It started in the 90s when one ordinary drugstore brand is their line of whitening products and suddenly all the care of skin marks and followed their own. Even high-end brands release their whitening products that are sold in Asia. As someone my dark skin, I found it impossible for a given time to find a powder or foundation that matched my complexion. Everything on the market used to be just and made me look like I was wearing a mask. It is one thing to want, without skin bright spot, but anything else that racist limit to want different skin tones who say openly white is what beauty is. It was not a problem before the 90, I think, but the media have a way to mold people into this very narrow way of self-imaging. I would not say it's about women who look up to tubules but women become insecure in their natural color of the skin because the media supports. Women, therefore, think it is important, because it is so expected that it becomes a "culture." There is something trophy; men seek friends who are just, mothers hope that their babies were born just, brides-to-be are rejected out into the sunlight for fear they'll get a tan. It's ridiculous. I am happy to say that more fashion and product use models with dark skin, the choice for news anchors and TV presenters are darker skin today, and we hope this will have some impact .
One last question. What is the best thing about making clothes for expatriate clientele?
The thought that my baby (clothes I created) will be taken at home and worn all over the world and will be topics of conversation at events, which will then start conversations about the Indonesia. It is always a good thing.
About Putu
Born in Indonesia, Putu grew up in the UK and graduated in design from Monash University in Melbourne.
Website: www.poutoucouture.com