"I'll get a big maybe."
- François Rabelais
There can be many things in life that are better than a sandy beach in the tropics. They do not rust, they will not break down and they do not even need maintenance (unlike a lot of other things I could mention!) They inspire dreams. And if we're lucky, we can even get to make their visit from time to time.
To find this legendary oasis in the sun is not as easy as in the past, however, and unlike it was 20 or 30 years, when we could just hop on a Garuda flight to Bali, a bit more effort is now needed to get to a beautiful beach that Indonesia is overrun with tourists or spoiled by garbage.
A truly remote and isolated beach, however, is not an option for many people - either because of the considerable time and effort to get there or because of the lack of decent housing (which can turn dream holiday in a proverbial holiday from hell).
So when someone told me about the tip of the beaches south of the island in Sulawesi odd shape - just look on the map - I naturally became intrigued me
.beaches are near a place called Tanjung Bira and to get there, you must first fly into the vibrant city of Makassar. That's the easy part. After that there is a five to six hour long journey on that for Indonesia, is remarkably good road, which takes you through small towns and villages Bugis traditional and through vast coastal salt plains finally you get closer to Bira.
The Bugis live in wooden houses stylish and often brightly colored ( rumah Panggung ) that are built on stilts. This is intended to provide protection against wild animals (okay, I made that up) and keep the spacious and cool homes, but they also appear as if they could withstand pretty severe floods also . A traditional solution to the perennial flooding in Jakarta, perhaps?
About 15 km on the road before Tanjung Bira is the boat building village of Tanah Beru. Construction of the traditional Phinisi (schooners) was made here for several hundred years now, and you have probably seen Phinisi if you have visited the old port of Sunda Kelapa in Jakarta. According to one of the young boat builders I spoke to Tanah Beru, the construction of these magnificent vessels is undertaken by adhering to the "knowledge" passed down through the generations, without plans or measures never build real boats - an astounding thought when everything seems to be written or recorded in this day and age.
All doubts about the seaworthiness of vessels are dispelled by elaborate ceremonies, which apparently involved the launching of newly built schooners on the bodies of seven pregnant women. Fortunately for all mothers in grass in the surrounding area, this particular ceremony is no longer (maybe the locals came to realize that the ceremony had a rather negative impact on future generations rather than to make any good luck).
You know you've arrived in Tanjung Bira when you come to one of those roadside medallions feared that ask you to pay what is so endearingly known in Indonesia as "compensation" . But since there is no barrier, there is no reason to stop and that's exactly what the locals; drive all right without stopping. It suffices to say.
First impressions of Tanjung Bira are not really that great to be honest. He has that kind of feeling tired and neglected to a place that has struggled with a lack of visitors. Bit like Anyer and Carita in Banten; ghost towns of the sea.
But Tanjung Bira is not really one place. It is two. There Tanjung Bira weekend when it is packed with domestic tourists - mainly from Makassar and close Bulukumba -. And Tanjung Bira during the week when it is almost deserted
Dig deeper and Tanjung Bira reveals its secrets. First, the beach of Tanjung Bira - while not exactly bad - not great either. However, only about 3 km away is the Bara Beach and this beach is a real discovery with its wonderfully powdery sand and crystal turquoise sea that suddenly turns dark blue when the water gets deep. Being isolated, it is very quiet and peaceful too.
Yet, Indonesia would not be Indonesia without something completely unexpected happens and whacky. In the case of Bira, it is a neighborhood of modest size "entertainment" located off the main thoroughfare of the city with shabby bungalows and a motley assortment of karaoke bars cheap. "Hindari pergaulan bebas & narkoba" (avoiding sex and free drugs), reads a sign outside of an institution particularly dilapidated. Well, you know what they say about the seamen and ...
In short, Tanjung Bira is an ideal destination for seasoned travelers looking some solitude and clean, secluded beaches. More adventurous types can also snorkel there - although the currents can be strong - and some decent snorkeling is usually possible in the neighboring islands (depending on weather and sea conditions). WiFi in Bira, alas, is more rare than the observation of a Javan tiger, so do not expect to get access to the Net. Bring some books instead - or better yet, your lover. After all, it is a holiday, not
In short
Country: Indonesia
province Sulawesi Selatan
get
many airlines fly Makassar as the city is the regional hub for air transport in eastern Indonesia. Makassar to Bira is a long journey of 195 km. The easy way to do this is to use a rental car (best booked in advance). A proposal much more difficult (but much cheaper) is to use public transport; take a taxi from the airport to the bus station Mellengkeri (about 40 minutes) and from there you can get a small public minivan Bira (maybe you have to change in Bulukumba).
The best time to travel
Bira may be a suitable destination to avoid the monsoon season from its seasonal rainfall is different from that in Jakarta, Makassar or Bali. Mostly dry for much of the year, more rain falls in the months of April, May and June.
Where to eat
The only decent restaurant is set back some way from the main beach, almost opposite the hotel Wisma Indah Bahari and called Rumah Makan Cici .
What
- Bira has a renowned diving center called Bira Divers (Tel: 081 237 200 560).
- Visit of an underground cave about 20 minutes Bira called P. Sohara Mandala Ria. After descending about 70 meters (bring a flashlight), you can swim in a cold pool, crystalline spring water.
- Visit the nearby islands of Pulau Kambing and Liukang island for diving. Motorboat costs about Rp.350,000 for the trip.